After making my By Hand London Kim dress it was pretty obvious I couldn’t attend a church wedding without covering up the ol’ shoulders. It would perhaps have been wise to buy a cardigan, as I’ve got a lot going on at work at the moment and my sewing list is seriously long… but when have I ever made life easy for myself?! I really wanted a smart cropped jacket that would work well with my dress, and the Named Clothing Lourdes Cropped Jacket seemed to fit the bill. After sending off for a lot of fabric samples I chose a red viscose twill suiting from Fabric Godmother. Of all the samples I preferred the colour and feel of this one, however, in retrospect it was perhaps a bit light in weight. For the lining, I went for a Georgina Von Etzdorf silk that my mum kindly gave to me last year, which I also used as the facing for my velvet Named Clothing Olivia Wrap Dress I made to see in 2017.
As this was my first lined jacket I quickly made a calico toile and used a really cheap lining, as much to practice the techniques as to check the fit. However, despite making quite a few Named Clothing patterns over the last few years, I completely forgot that their early patterns do not include the seam allowance, so in the end the toile was completely useless for testing fit anyway. I cut a straight size 10/38 and even without the seam allowance I could just about get it on, so I thought that was probably about right. I didn’t have the time to test this theory, so just went for it – annoyingly, I think it actually might be a bit on the big side (certainly with a close fitting dress underneath), but at least I can wear it with other garments after the wedding.
During construction I found the sleeves a little tricky; they’re 3/4 length and finished with a dolphin hem, which looks lovely but isn’t exactly straightforward. I found finishing them off on the machine impossible and had to do it by hand, however the pattern said that you might have to do this, and the finished result was worth it. I also didn’t make working with the lining easy for myself, as the silk, though very pretty, was a complete nightmare to work with and slipped all over the place! I really didn’t want to put buttons on the jacket for some reason, so just kept it open. I’m really pressed for sewing time at the moment, and I really think it looks better anyway – if I ever want to add a fastening, I might go for a hook and eye.
I am so happy with the finished garment. The pattern was a great choice for a first attempt at a fully lined jacket – whilst being simple enough it has some lovely details. Also, I love having a luxurious lining… it makes it feel so posh and special!