A Named Clothing Isla Trench Coat

I seem to be making a lot of coats lately, maybe it’s the weather? The latest edition to my cloakroom is the Named Clothing Isla trench.

Last year I admired many a green trench coat about town, and one in the window of Oliver Bonas in particular. But (I think) like many of my fellow seamstresses out there, I never bought it. Whilst gazing through the window I thought “£120? I could make it for less than that…” Almost a year later, I finally got around to making one, and as it turned out – yeah, I could! The Isla is a classic trench coat with lots of lovely details, and is certainly one of the more challenging projects I’ve made.

At the start of autumn last year, when I originally intended to make this coat, I carefully scoured the shops for the exact shade of green I wanted, and found the perfect cotton twill at Ray Stitch. When, last weekend, I finally started to trace the pattern, I still sourced a lining but remembered a lovely Liberty tana lawn that I got on sale a couple of years ago that been been gathering dust in my stash ever since. I am so pleased I saved it as they make such a good pair – the buttons are also from Ray stitch.

The preliminary stages of tracing the pattern pieces, and cutting out the whopping 24 pieces involved, took a really long time especially including marking up, interfacing and overlocking. I must have been in another world when I traced the pieces from the pattern as I forgot to add seam allowances, on this, which is probably my 20th Named Clothing pattern?! Luckily I realised before cutting out my fabric (phew) so no harm done. I did however make one other big mistake whilst cutting out my back lining pieces. I don’t know what I was thinking – I must have been getting impatient, but there should be two pieces, each one cut out on a separate line. For some reason I cut it out as one piece, on a fold. I managed to work out a way of compensating for my error, which meant that the vent lies the opposite way than in the pattern – I’m not going to loose any sleep over this, and I’m just pleased I managed to work out a solution without having to throw my lovely lining away! I also took the hem up by 2 inches, as I am titchy.

After many hours laying the ground work, the sewing of the coat wasn’t actually as bad as I feared, and wasn’t much harder than the other Named Clothing jackets I have made – just some additional details and tricky bits. Sewing the collar and collar stand were very familiar from the many shirts I’ve made before, and so came out much neater than I was expecting. However, I feel the instructions became a little vague towards the end – when it came to sewing the vent I felt quite confused, and no matter how many times I read the instructions I really couldn’t work out if I did it right or not… but it looks right, so I guess I did. Sewing the buttonholes was a breeze thanks to my fancy sewing machine, although I think that considering I took up the hem by a couple of inches I should have left off the final button hole as it goes down to my knees!

I am so pleased that I got round to making this coat, it has been so much fun to make and I am so pleased with the results. It’s the final ‘big’ project I am going to tackle for a while, I think I need to make a few quick satisfying projects next…

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3 Comments

  1. April 17, 2018
    Reply

    Fabulous, lovely colour and style, choosing that colour makes this a standout piece! Haven’t named started including a seam allowance? Very confusing and it seems crazy not to do it.

  2. April 20, 2018
    Reply

    Your coat is amazing!! And the fabric is beautiful – I’m in the market for some green coat fabric, so shall have to check it out. Totally didn’t realise that Named didn’t add a seam allowance, and I have the Kielo Wrap Dress pattern. Better double check it before starting!

  3. April 30, 2018
    Reply

    Riotous applause! Beautiful color, beautifully sewn Isla trench! I’m very excited to come across your blog, also. 🙂

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